CELINE Hiver/Fall 2026

CELINE HIVER 2026. PARIS words BARTOLOMEO CELESTINO

FASHION HAS SPENT THE LAST DECADE BEHAVING LIKE A NERVOUS GUEST AT DINNER. EXPLAINING ITSELF TOO LOUDLY, MISTAKING COMPLICATIONS FOR INTELLIGENCE AND CALLING EVERY STYLING ACCIDENT A “CONCEPT.” MICHAEL RIDER, MERCIFULLY, SEEMS BORED BY THE ENTIRE PERFORMANCE.

FOR HIVER 2026, SHOWN AT THE INSTITUT DE FRANCE DURING THE MARCH EDITION OF PFW, HE SHARPENED THE PENCIL. LITERALLY, ACCORDING TO HIS NOTES. THE CRITICAL VOCABULARY AROUND THE COLLECTION WAS REMARKABLY CONSISTENT: CONFIDENCE, INTUITION, ECCENTRICITY, CONTRADICTION, IMPERFECTION. AN EXPENSIVE-LOOKING YET ASPIRATIONALLY RELATABLE WITH PLATONIC IDEALS OF OUTFITS”, A VISUAL PUNCH WITH RESTRAIN. WE SAW THE SHARPER LINE WITH RIDER WHO HAS ESSENTIALLY STOPPED INTRODUCING HIMSELF. 

THE OLDER PREPPY SHORTHAND WAS TIGHTENED, CROPPED AND DISCIPLINED. JACKETS CAME CLOSER TO THE BODY. TROUSERS KICKED OUT AT THE ANKLE. COATS BECAME LONG, LEAN PUNCTUATION MARKS. THEN CAME THE NECESSARY SABOTAGE: FEATHERS IN THE HAIR, LEATHER SCARVES, ODD HATS, MISMATCHED EARRINGS, A TROUSER LEG TUCKED INTO ONE BOOT. GOOD TASTE, THANK GOD, WAS NOT PERMITTED TO BECOME WELL BEHAVED.

RIDER PUTS IT MORE BEAUTIFULLY: “I LOVE WHEN MESSY, COMPLEX, LAYERED INNER LIVES COME THROUGH UNDERNEATH GREAT CLOTHES.” AND THERE IT IS. CLOTHES NOT AS DISGUISE, ALGORITHM OR PERSONAL-BRAND MANAGEMENT, BUT AS ACCOMPLICES. A JACKET IS ONLY A JACKET UNTIL SOMEBODY INTERESTING PUTS IT ON.

THIS MAY BE THE MOST RADICAL THING IN LUXURY RIGHT NOW. FORGET NOVELTY, NOSTALGIA, GINE ME PERSONALITY. “CLASSICS IS ONE THING, BUT WE LIKE BITE,” RIDER SAID. 

OR, AS FRANK O’HARA WROTE: “GRACE TO BE BORN AND LIVE AS VARIOUSLY AS POSSIBLE.”